Fixing a curtain rod: rail and supports securely

A poorly fixed curtain rod always ends up giving way, often in the middle of the night, under the weight of the fabric. The good news: fixing a rod is a simple and quick job, provided you respect three golden rules. First, choose supports suited to the weight of your curtains. Second, fix the supports on load-bearing points (wall studs, not just the drywall). Finally, set the height and the overhang for an elegant result. Here is how to do it, step by step.

Choosing the rod, the supports and the fixings

• 28 mm brass or stainless steel rod: ideal for heavy curtains and sheer curtains
• Aluminum or lacquered steel rod: light and resistant, for everyday use
• Simple supports every 1.20 to 1.50 m, or reinforced supports for lengths over 2 m
• Anchors suited to the wall material: Molly anchors for drywall, universal anchors for concrete or brick
• Fixing screws 4 to 5 mm in diameter, spirit level, drill, masonry or drywall bits, tape measure and pencil

The most important rule: one support every 1.20 m maximum. For a 1.80 m wide window, count 3 supports (one at each end and one in the center). If your rod exceeds 2 meters or carries thick curtains, add a fourth reinforced central support. The decorative finials support nothing: it is on the supports that all the weight rests.

Determining the height and position of the rod

1. Place the rod 10 to 15 cm above the window frame, or halfway between the frame and the cornice if there is one
2. Allow an overhang of 15 to 25 cm on each side of the window so the open curtains do not cover the glazing
3. Mark the position of the supports with a pencil using the spirit level, the rod must be perfectly horizontal
4. Mark the drilling points through the holes in the supports

An overhang of 15 to 25 cm on each side is not just a matter of aesthetics: it lets the curtains open fully and lets all the light into the room. For eyelet curtains, the rod must protrude a bit more, because the eyelet takes up about 5 cm beyond the folded fabric. Always position the rod before buying the curtains, or measure the window carefully.

Finding the wall studs before drilling

On a drywall partition, the most fragile point is the sheet itself: a correctly installed Molly anchor supports 10 to 15 kg, but a simple drilling into the sheet without an anchor or with an unsuitable anchor gives way at the first pull on the curtain. The best is to target the metal studs (framing) behind the sheet, spaced 40 or 60 cm apart. Locate them with a magnetic stud finder or by passing a magnet gently over the wall. On a concrete or brick wall, no particular precaution: universal anchors do the job.

Drilling and fixing the supports

1. Punch each drilling point to guide the bit
2. Drill with the suitable bit: drywall bit in a partition, masonry bit with a hammer drill in a solid wall
3. Drill 5 mm above the mark if you are aiming for a metal stud, to avoid drifting into the framing
4. Insert the anchors with a hammer without forcing, flush with the wall
5. Screw in the supports level, aligning them with the spirit level and checking the height of each
6. Clip the rod into the supports, then check the whole thing is horizontal and stable

Adapting the fixing to the wall material

• Drywall: Molly anchor, or direct fixing into the metal stud with wood screws
• Concrete or cinder block: 6 mm nylon universal anchor with 4 mm screws, drilling with a hammer drill
• Solid brick: classic nylon anchor, drilling without hammering so as not to split the brick
• Hollow brick: special expansion anchor (with wings), essential so the rod does not move
• Wood or paneling: no anchor, 35 to 45 mm wood screws are enough

The mistakes to avoid

• Drilling into the drywall without an anchor and screwing directly: the screw tears the sheet at the first weight
• Spacing the supports more than 1.50 m: the rod sags and the finials touch the wall
• Not using the spirit level: a tilted rod is immediately visible and the curtains do not glide straight
• Too much overhang on each side: the rod is long and fragile in the center
• Forgetting to check there are no electrical cables before drilling, especially above windows

Checking the strength and hanging the curtains

Before threading the curtains, pull firmly on the rod at each support: it must neither move, nor creak, nor come unhooked. If a support gives way, repair the hole with filler, let it dry and drill 2 cm further. For heavy curtains (lined, thick linen), prefer screwed finials rather than clipped ones and check the tightening of the supports after a few weeks: the wood of moldings settles slightly. A well-fixed rod, with supports every 1.20 m and anchors suited to your wall, supports your curtains for years without weakening, and this method applies equally to a shower rod and a curtain rail.