Connecting a washing machine: water supply and drain explained
Installing a washing machine does not require being a plumber, but you need to follow a few basic rules to avoid leaks, bad odors and electrical failures. This guide details connecting the water supply, setting up the drain and the checks to make before running the first load.
The materials needed for the connection
- The water inlet hose supplied with the machine (standard length of 1.5 m)
- The drain hose and its elbow, often already fitted on the appliance
- A supply valve with a 3/4 inch fitting
- An adjustable wrench to tighten the nuts
- A spirit level to level the machine
- Hose clamps if you secure the drain hose
Preparing the location and checking the supplies
Choose a location close to the water supply and the drain: the length of the hoses is limited and every extra meter complicates the installation. Check that the machine is level using the spirit level by adjusting the four feet. A level machine vibrates less, makes less noise and keeps the hoses from being pulled out of their housing.
Connecting the water supply
- Close the water supply valve before any handling.
- Screw the hose nut onto the valve by hand, then tighten half a turn with the wrench.
- Connect the other end of the hose to the fitting at the back of the machine, tightening moderately.
- Slowly open the valve and inspect each connection for two minutes.
- Dry any trace of moisture and check again after a few hours.
Most washing machines accept cold water only, but some models offer an optional hot water supply. In that case, connect the red hose to the hot water valve and the blue hose to the cold water, strictly respecting the color code, otherwise the machine blends temperatures poorly and the detergent dissolves badly.
Installing the drain hose
- Slide the end of the drain hose into the sink standpipe, into the dedicated drain pipe or into a trap designed for this purpose.
- Attach the plastic elbow to the end of the hose so it stays in place.
- Check that the highest part of the hose forms a loop at least 60 cm from the floor, without ever exceeding 1 meter.
- Keep the end of the hose more than 15 cm from the bottom of the pipe to prevent water from rising back up.
- Secure the hose with a hose clamp if there is no dedicated routing.
Connecting the electricity and running the test
Plug the plug into the dedicated wall outlet, preferably behind the machine so it stays accessible. Then check that the valves are open and run an empty cycle at 60 degrees. During the cycle, watch the connections: a small puddle at the foot of the machine indicates a poorly tightened nut, which should be retightened after turning off the valve.
The mistakes to avoid
- Forgetting to remove the transit bolts at the back of the machine, which destroys the damper at the first spin
- Tightening the nuts with a wrench without control, crushing the sealing gasket
- Laying the drain hose flat on the floor, causing water to rise back up and odors
- Using an old water inlet hose instead of the one supplied with the appliance
A properly connected washing machine runs without leaks for years. Take the time to check each connection during the first few uses: a timely retightening avoids a lot of water damage. If a puddle appears despite everything, immediately close the supply valve and inspect the gaskets before running another cycle.