Installing a wooden fence: posts and panels, the complete guide
A wooden fence delimits your garden, protects your privacy and structures the landscape. Installing it yourself requires method: the secret of a lasting fence lies in the quality of the post bedding. This guide details the positioning, the concrete bedding and the fixing of the panels, with the tools, measurements and pitfalls to avoid.
The necessary materials and tools
- Class 4 pressure-treated pine posts, 8 x 8 cm section, length = fence height + 60 cm of bedding
- Fence panels (often 180 x 180 cm) or slats and rails for a bespoke fence
- Ready-to-use bags of concrete (on average 1 bag of 35 kg per post)
- Gravel, sand and water for the bottom of the holes
- Shovel, pickaxe, string line, spirit level, tape measure, plumb line
- Galvanised screws or nails, fixing brackets, jigsaw and drill-driver
Positioning the fence
- Check the boundaries of your land: 0.5 m of setback is often mandatory from the neighbouring property
- Drive alignment pegs at the corners and stretch a string line between them
- Measure the total length and space the posts every 2 m (less if your panels are shorter)
- Mark the exact position of each hole with spray paint or chalk
- Dig each hole with the pickaxe 60 cm deep, slightly wider than the post (30 x 30 cm)
Bedding the posts in concrete
The bedding determines the stability of the whole fence. Lay 10 cm of gravel at the bottom of the hole for drainage, place the post and check the verticality with the spirit level in both directions. Wedge it with wooden spacers, then pour the ready-to-use concrete up to 5 cm below ground level. Let it dry 48 hours before fixing the panels: the concrete must be perfectly set.
Fixing the panels
- Wait for the concrete to dry completely (48 hours minimum in normal weather)
- Offset each panel 1 to 2 cm above the ground to avoid contact with moisture
- Check the level of the panel with a spirit level before each fixing
- Screw two galvanised brackets per side, one at the top and one at the bottom
- Leave a 5 mm gap between two panels for the wood to expand
Managing the level changes and corners
- On a gentle slope, offset the height of the panels regularly and continuously
- On a steep slope, cut the panels at an angle or create steps with intermediate posts
- At the corners, use double posts or reinforced brackets
- For a blind fence, reinforce the corner posts every 2.5 m
Panel fence or slat fence?
Prefabricated panels (often 180 x 180 cm) are quick to fit and inexpensive, but their thin wood sometimes warps over the years. A slat fence with gaps (vertical strips of wood) offers a more aesthetic result and better aeration, at the price of a longer installation. The louvered panel, with spaced slats, lets through wind and light while masking the view. Choose according to your needs: total screening, light windbreak or simple delimitation of the land.
The budget of a wooden fence
- Prefabricated panels: 25 to 40 € per 1.8 m² unit
- 8 x 8 cm class 4 posts: 8 to 15 € each
- Ready-to-use concrete: 6 to 8 € per 35 kg bag, one bag per post
- Slats and rails for a bespoke fence: 30 to 55 € per m²
- Allow about 60 to 90 € per linear metre, installation included for prefabricated
The mistakes to avoid
- Bedding untreated posts: they rot at ground level in 3 to 5 years
- Fixing the panels before the concrete sets: the fence warps and leans
- Closing the panels flush with the ground: the moisture rises and degrades the wood
- Positioning without checking the boundaries of the land: risk of a dispute with the neighbours
Installing a wooden fence takes a weekend of work and patience, but the result is lasting: well-bedded posts, level panels and treated wood. By following these steps, you get a solid fence that protects your garden for years, while adding character to your exterior. A light annual maintenance (cleaning, staining every 2 to 3 years, retightening the screws) is enough to prolong its lifespan, and the whole thing remains far cheaper than a fence installed by a professional.