Fixing a shower bar: drilling, anchors and sealing
The shower bar supports the hose and the hand shower: if it is not well fixed, it pivots, falls or tears the tile. Two solutions are available to you: the suction cup bar, installed in a minute without drilling, and the anchor-fixed bar, more reliable and durable. The choice depends on the weight of the hand shower, the condition of the tile and whether you want to drill or not. Allow 30 to 45 minutes of work and a budget of 20 to 80 euros for the whole thing.
Suction cup bar or drill-fixed bar?
- The suction cup bar: installation without drilling, ideal for rentals, but requires a perfectly smooth and clean surface
- The anchor bar: the strongest fixing, which resists heavy hand showers and children who lean on it
- The angled or corner bar, which equips shower enclosures and bathtubs
- The double bar, with two hand showers, often supplied with the shower column
- The length of the bar, to be chosen according to the ceiling height and the position of the hose
Suction cups work very well on a glazed, perfectly smooth tile, provided you clean the surface and press them well to force out the air. They are perfect for a standard light hand shower. On the other hand, for a complete shower column or a heavy rain shower head, prefer anchor fixing. If your tile is porous, has large grout lines or is already cracked, the suction cups will not adhere properly: in that case, mechanical fixing is the only reliable option.
Locating the position and the studs
Before drilling, carefully locate the position of the bar. On drywall, look for the metal or wood studs behind the wall with a stud finder: fixing into a stud gives a much stronger hold. On a concrete or brick wall, the tile is only a finish, and you must drill avoiding the grout lines if possible for a clean result. The bottom of the bar is usually placed around 1.20 to 1.50 m from the floor, and the top must allow the hand shower to rise above your head, i.e. about 1.80 to 2 m depending on the configuration.
Drilling the tile without cracking it
- Stick a piece of masking tape on the location of the hole: it prevents the drill bit from slipping on the glaze.
- Mark the center with a center punch or a pencil.
- Drill the tile in a small diameter (3 to 5 mm ceramic bit) at slow speed, without pressing hard.
- Replace the ceramic bit with the masonry bit of the anchors' diameter and drill the required depth.
- Drive the anchors in with a hammer, without forcing to avoid splitting the tile.
- Screw in the supports or the bar ends, then clip or screw the bar onto them.
- Adjust the height of the hand shower and check that the bar is level and does not move.
Guaranteeing the sealing of the fixings
A shower bar is installed in a damp area: water can seep through the drill holes and reach the wall structure. Apply a bead of neutral silicone sealant around each fixing before tightening, or put a dab of silicone in the hole before driving in the anchor. Wipe off the excess with a damp finger. This precaution protects the wall from moisture and prevents the bar from destabilizing. After a few weeks, check that nothing moves and retighten the screws if necessary.
The mistakes to avoid
- Drilling directly with a masonry bit on the glaze, which slips and scratches the tile
- Pressing too hard on the drill, which cracks the tile
- Forgetting the studs on drywall, which gives an unstable fixing
- Putting suction cups on porous or dirty tile, which come off at the first shower
- Overtightening the screws, which cracks the tile around the hole
Fixing a shower bar is a small job that mainly requires precision at the time of drilling. Suction cups are enough for a light hand shower and effortless installation, while anchor fixing remains the durable solution for shower columns and intensive use. If your tile is fragile, glazed or old, or if you cannot locate a stud, call a professional: they will drill cleanly and guarantee a fixing that will last years. In all cases, don't forget the sealing silicone, your best ally in damp areas.